Life must go on in Gaza
A year in Gaza
Darrin Waller has been working for Christian Aid partner, the Palestinian Centre for Human Rights (PCHR), in Gaza for the past year. In November he will return to the UK to become director of the charity Medical Aid for Palestinians. Here he speaks about his year. A year that has seen the Israeli army pull out and the bitter conflict between Israel and Lebanon that relegated Gaza to a media footnote.
In June 2005 Darrin passed through an Israeli checkpoint and entered the Gaza Strip – a piece of land 25 miles long by eight miles wide that is home to 1.5 million Palestinians.
At the time, Israeli Defense Forces (IDF) troops occupied the interior of the Strip in order to protect the 7,500 Israeli civilians – known as settlers - living there. It was divided into three distinct areas – north, middle and south – with Palestinians often prevented from passing from one area to another.
At the time, Israeli Defense Forces (IDF) troops occupied the interior of the Strip in order to protect the 7,500 Israeli civilians – known as settlers - living there. It was divided into three distinct areas – north, middle and south – with Palestinians often prevented from passing from one area to another.
'The strip is effectively the world's largest open air prison fenced and walled on the three land sides and patrolled by gun boats on the coastal side’
‘This is where I had chosen to live and work for the next 18 months or so,’ said Darin.
Today, the IDF does not physically occupy the interior of the Strip in quite the same way, because the soldiers based there and the Israeli settlers who lived there pulled out a year ago.
However, Israel still controls access into and out of the Strip. No one can leave without permission - the occupation continues in all but name.
Darrin’s decision to go was taken after 10 years of working for rights-based development organisations in the UK, the West Bank and East Jerusalem. ‘I wanted to work with what I perceived was the most effective human rights organisation in the Occupied Palestinian Territories,’ he said. ‘I’d heard great things about the centre and its director Raji Sourani, who is a recipient of the French Republic, UNAIS and Bruno Kreisky Human Rights Awards.’
As for timing, Darrin wanted to be in Gaza ‘before the Israeli army redeployed and to also work on the impact of their pullout.’
Today, the IDF does not physically occupy the interior of the Strip in quite the same way, because the soldiers based there and the Israeli settlers who lived there pulled out a year ago.
However, Israel still controls access into and out of the Strip. No one can leave without permission - the occupation continues in all but name.
Darrin’s decision to go was taken after 10 years of working for rights-based development organisations in the UK, the West Bank and East Jerusalem. ‘I wanted to work with what I perceived was the most effective human rights organisation in the Occupied Palestinian Territories,’ he said. ‘I’d heard great things about the centre and its director Raji Sourani, who is a recipient of the French Republic, UNAIS and Bruno Kreisky Human Rights Awards.’
As for timing, Darrin wanted to be in Gaza ‘before the Israeli army redeployed and to also work on the impact of their pullout.’
First impressions
The taxi driver who picked Darrin up at on the Palestinian side of the Gaza checkpoint looked ‘rather like a Viking, with a shock of white hair, sharp chiselled features and piercing blue eyes’. He was Darrin realised, an example of the diversity of Gazans.
‘Gaza is a real melting pot. The Egyptians, Turkish, British, French, Greeks, and Persians to name a few have previously controlled or occupied this tiny strip of land. It has also been a strategic trading crossroads for centuries. The image of the stereotypical Arab person just doesn’t hold water here.’
To survive, Darrin discovered that personal contacts are everything.
‘I was told out here there is no respect for an organisation or institution, only for an individual. In terms of getting things done or making things happen you have to develop a relationship with the right individual. That is the chemistry of the place.’
‘Gaza is a real melting pot. The Egyptians, Turkish, British, French, Greeks, and Persians to name a few have previously controlled or occupied this tiny strip of land. It has also been a strategic trading crossroads for centuries. The image of the stereotypical Arab person just doesn’t hold water here.’
To survive, Darrin discovered that personal contacts are everything.
‘I was told out here there is no respect for an organisation or institution, only for an individual. In terms of getting things done or making things happen you have to develop a relationship with the right individual. That is the chemistry of the place.’
The pullout
During those first few weeks in the summer of 2005 there was, recalls Darrin, ‘an air of heavy expectation’ among the people as Israel formally announced its unilateral disengagement plan. Some Gazans thought it would not happen, while others were concerned about the power vacuum that would be left.
‘With restricted movement, Palestinian police could not patrol the Strip effectively and inevitably local fiefdoms took root. Coupled with the already tense situation between the Islamist group Hamas and Fatah, the then ruling party and the largest group within the Palestinian Liberation Organisation, the future did not look good.’
But people were hopeful that the pullout would give them the chance to travel to see family and friends in the West Bank and, with an unemployment rate of more than 40 per cent in Gaza, find work.
‘With restricted movement, Palestinian police could not patrol the Strip effectively and inevitably local fiefdoms took root. Coupled with the already tense situation between the Islamist group Hamas and Fatah, the then ruling party and the largest group within the Palestinian Liberation Organisation, the future did not look good.’
But people were hopeful that the pullout would give them the chance to travel to see family and friends in the West Bank and, with an unemployment rate of more than 40 per cent in Gaza, find work.
Sad destruction
On the 12 September 2005 the last Israeli settlers and soldiers left the Strip. Gaza ‘erupted into a frenzy’ as many headed for the former Israeli settlements, which had been reduced to rubble by the IDF before the pullout.
‘Despite the death and misery these settlements had caused the Palestinians, I took no joy at these scenes of destruction,’ Darrin said. ‘Whole communities had been flattened, personal effects lay strewn in the rubble. For many Israeli children Gaza had been their home, the place where they had gone to school, grown up.
‘What problems will lie in store for these children when they grow up and want to visit their childhood homes? Children are children – they have no part in politics. Palestinian and Israeli children both suffered for this failed experiment of trying to colonise Gaza’.
‘Despite the death and misery these settlements had caused the Palestinians, I took no joy at these scenes of destruction,’ Darrin said. ‘Whole communities had been flattened, personal effects lay strewn in the rubble. For many Israeli children Gaza had been their home, the place where they had gone to school, grown up.
‘What problems will lie in store for these children when they grow up and want to visit their childhood homes? Children are children – they have no part in politics. Palestinian and Israeli children both suffered for this failed experiment of trying to colonise Gaza’.
The Election
Hamas’ victory and impact The Palestinian Legislative Elections took place in January this year, most believing that the ruling party Fatah would win with a reduced majority. But after smooth elections Hamas surprised everyone with a convincing win.
‘The international community responded almost immediately with one of the most draconian sanctions regimes ever enforced against a people’ said Darrin. ‘All aid was stopped, investment and training ceased, salaries went unpaid.’
When an Israeli soldier was later captured by Palestinian fighters, Israel started a military campaign called Operation Summer Rain, which the Israeli authorities said was to secure the solidier’s release and to ‘prevent the passage of the terrorists to the rocket launching grounds’.
Many of Gaza’s roads, bridges, schools, universities, factories, water utilities were destroyed as well as Gaza’s only electricity power station.
‘Many say that this is the worst situation Gaza has ever experienced – imprisoned, bombed and denied adequate food, medicine and fuel supplies,’ said Darrin.
‘The international community responded almost immediately with one of the most draconian sanctions regimes ever enforced against a people’ said Darrin. ‘All aid was stopped, investment and training ceased, salaries went unpaid.’
When an Israeli soldier was later captured by Palestinian fighters, Israel started a military campaign called Operation Summer Rain, which the Israeli authorities said was to secure the solidier’s release and to ‘prevent the passage of the terrorists to the rocket launching grounds’.
Many of Gaza’s roads, bridges, schools, universities, factories, water utilities were destroyed as well as Gaza’s only electricity power station.
‘Many say that this is the worst situation Gaza has ever experienced – imprisoned, bombed and denied adequate food, medicine and fuel supplies,’ said Darrin.
Long hot summer
The summer of 2006 was a difficult one. Gaza was cut off from the world and then the conflict in Lebanon and the north of Israel diverted media attention away from the Strip.
Operation Summer Rain continued. Israeli planes often flew low over Gaza, breaking the sound barrier triggering massive and frightening sonic booms.
‘I was at a meal with friends who have children,’ said Darrin, ‘and when the sonic booms exploded, kids under five just started crying and wetting themselves. Anyone who has children has to share a bed with them because they are so afraid’.
In addition there were times when Gaza was hit by artillery shells - the UN estimates that the IDF has fired between 150 and 200 artillery shells into Gaza every day during the operation.
‘I went to Beit Lahia and saw one kid hiding under a block of concrete. He would not move, talk or respond. He was almost catatonic. This is the stuff the media did not see.’
Operation Summer Rain continued. Israeli planes often flew low over Gaza, breaking the sound barrier triggering massive and frightening sonic booms.
‘I was at a meal with friends who have children,’ said Darrin, ‘and when the sonic booms exploded, kids under five just started crying and wetting themselves. Anyone who has children has to share a bed with them because they are so afraid’.
In addition there were times when Gaza was hit by artillery shells - the UN estimates that the IDF has fired between 150 and 200 artillery shells into Gaza every day during the operation.
‘I went to Beit Lahia and saw one kid hiding under a block of concrete. He would not move, talk or respond. He was almost catatonic. This is the stuff the media did not see.’
Kidnapping
Gaza has now become dangerous for foreigners. In August this year a reporter and cameraman from America’s Fox News were kidnapped.
‘The rumours among the people are that British and American citizens are being targeted. The Lebanon conflict has contributed to this – the people here feel they have been left with nothing. They have been cornered and treated like animals.’
Darrin reviewed his security situation daily but decided to stay, mainly because his work with a local organisation and strong local contacts mean he felt slightly better protected. The Fox crew were eventually released.
‘The rumours among the people are that British and American citizens are being targeted. The Lebanon conflict has contributed to this – the people here feel they have been left with nothing. They have been cornered and treated like animals.’
Darrin reviewed his security situation daily but decided to stay, mainly because his work with a local organisation and strong local contacts mean he felt slightly better protected. The Fox crew were eventually released.
The future
Regardless of the troubles Darrin had always planned to stay for eighteen months. However, when he was offered the job as director of Medical Aid for Palestinians (MAP) he felt it was too good to turn down. Although London based, he feels the job will have have a greater impact on more lives.
In the meantime, he refuses to give up hope for Gaza. ‘I am a person who really believes that hope springs eternal’, he said. ‘I hope that the international community lives up to its legal and moral obligations.
‘But I do feel the despair too, when the people here continually tell me that “it is just a disaster, we have no life”. Occupation is a word that has become trite but the reality is, occupation is vile, brutal and dehumanising – there can be no justification for it, it must end. Talk to any Gazan and they will tell you “we just want the occupation to end”’.
In the meantime, he refuses to give up hope for Gaza. ‘I am a person who really believes that hope springs eternal’, he said. ‘I hope that the international community lives up to its legal and moral obligations.
‘But I do feel the despair too, when the people here continually tell me that “it is just a disaster, we have no life”. Occupation is a word that has become trite but the reality is, occupation is vile, brutal and dehumanising – there can be no justification for it, it must end. Talk to any Gazan and they will tell you “we just want the occupation to end”’.
Facts on the ground
– 64% of Palestinians live below the poverty line, up from 20% in 1998 (Christian Aid)
– 78% of Gazans are without an income (Christian Aid)
– In the past 12 months 368 Gazans have been killed by the IDF, the majority of them civilians, including 69 children.
– More than 1,000 Gazans have been injured, again the majority civilians, and many of the injuries include severe burns and the loss of limbs.
– Israel has carried out 57 extra-judicial executions in Gaza which have left 37 civilian bystanders dead and many more injured.
– More than 200 homes have been damaged or destroyed and hundreds of acres of agricultural land has been razed.
Above information provided by the Palestinian Centre for Human Rights unless stated otherwise
– 78% of Gazans are without an income (Christian Aid)
– In the past 12 months 368 Gazans have been killed by the IDF, the majority of them civilians, including 69 children.
– More than 1,000 Gazans have been injured, again the majority civilians, and many of the injuries include severe burns and the loss of limbs.
– Israel has carried out 57 extra-judicial executions in Gaza which have left 37 civilian bystanders dead and many more injured.
– More than 200 homes have been damaged or destroyed and hundreds of acres of agricultural land has been razed.
Above information provided by the Palestinian Centre for Human Rights unless stated otherwise
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